110 Sullivan Street

It was April of 1973 and I had long over stayed my welcome on Ron’s sofa. He never said a word in that regard of course, because he was a gentle, good-hearted soul who only knew how to be kind. Jacob was alternating between his obnoxious friend’s apartment and Ron’s. It had become evident that if I intended on staying in New York, it would be necessary to share an apartment and Jacob was the only person I knew that also needed to find a place. Although he was not what I would consider a friend, he was honest and trustworthy. After all the angst my first NYC apartment share had caused, those qualities now seemed to account for a lot. If only he weren’t so juvenile and silly acting and oh so very…OHIO. There just was no other way for me to explain his giddy behaviour most times. It served as a reminder that he had graduated from high school less than a year before.

My nest egg had dwindled down to the size of a pea – under $100. On Ron’s advice, I had signed up at a temp agency and began going out to work as a clerk/typist. I hadn’t taken a timed typing test since the tenth grade, yet actually did very well and was told I could get an extra dollar or so an hour because of my ability at the keys. The bad thing about temping was that even if you were available every day, they couldn’t guarantee a full week’s work. Sometimes on an assignment, you were not told until late in the afternoon that there was nothing for you the next day, so your services wouldn’t be needed. Often it was too late to call the agency to find anything for the following day. One positive was it did allow me the freedom to audition, and now that was the only theatre I had been doing since I’d moved four months before.

It was a real thrill to work in a New York City office though, even if the financial reward was somewhat less than paltry. My jobs were in Midtown Manhattan in offices in many of those dozens of 1960s “modern” glass buildings. On the twenty or thirty something-eth floor overlooking the city, the views out the window were ofttimes breathtakingly stunning, even to my hyper acrophobic eyes. And the colorful Gothamites who were my supervisors and co-workers for the day or week were character studies for me. It was on these jobs that I began to learn the distinction between a Brooklyn and a Queens accent. Here is where I adopted “waaah-dah” and “coo-aawh-fee” into my daily vernacular. Temping gave me money for my day-to-day Manhattan existence, but I worried that it was not going to give me enough to pay rent and utilities for any inhabitable apartment, even with Jacob’s corresponding half.

Our days of going out to eat, or even deli takeout, were over. We took turns shopping and cooking for Ron – poor payment for his generous hospitality. It became a form of entertainment and he would regale us with stories of when he had come to the city at my age, ten years before. It gave me hope that there was a future to be had for a gay guy from NoWheresville, USA: making a home, finding a partner AND steady employment in the theatre. “Be patient. It’ll happen.” was the mantra my guru assured me. Jacob was searching for apartments, studying the Village Voice like I memorized Backstage. It depressed me to even consider looking at rental ads, because I was realistic and had no idea how we would ever find the money for security deposit and first month’s rent. That did not deter the zealous teenager. What he wanted most was a Manhattan address. I told him I would only consider the West Village.

One day, when I had a work assignment and he didn’t, Jacob met me at the subway station as I was climbing up the stairs to the sidewalk on my way home. He was nearly frothing at the mouth with excitement, instructing me to follow him to see “the most FABulous apartment ever”. He babbled as he led me fast-footed to his “find” where the super was waiting to show us the place he had seen earlier that morning. He was afraid it wouldn’t last long. It was on Sullivan Street, south of Houston in what at that time some referred to as Little Italy, but now is named SoHo. The building was on the block between Prince and Spring Streets, nestled amongst many charming old red brick buildings.

110 Sullivan wasn’t charming red brick like most of its neighbors. The facade was white glazed brick and it stuck out on the west side of the block like a stark monolithic malignancy that jarred the eyes. Often I wondered what possible little gem might have been torn down to make room for this 1960s eyesore. Nora Ephron mentions the same building in a recent book. It was her first New York apartment in 1963 when she moved to the city. She says it was new when she moved in and her only adjective to describe the place was “horrible”.  In those days it rented for $160 a month.

I suppose when you’ve been living on some kind stranger’s sofa for three weeks and you are desperate for setting down roots and making a home, anything will look good. It was an elevator building – a plus. It had air conditioning – another plus. The main room was decent-sized and had lovely hardwood floors. What they called a kitchen was really just the far right corner of this room clustered with an apartment-sized two burner stove, an under-the-counter mini fridge and a sink the size of the spit bowl in my dentist’s office – I swear.  Jacob’s find also had a bedroom (O joy! O rapture!), the biggest of all pluses.

But then there was the bathroom. It was off the bedroom. I had lived in three apartments in Ohio and the studio in NYC plus Ron’s yet I had never seen this phenomenon before or since in nearly 40 years. It meant anyone who needed to pee had to tromp through your bedroom. It made absolutely no sense. We took it anyway. The rent was $225 a month which even we knew was quite a steal for what it was and where it was. How could we pass it up?  And I know it would have been snatched up if we hesitated even twenty-four hours. Before we could actually say yes, we needed to find $450 which we neither of us had nor could get our hands on in a month let alone by the following morning. Still Jacob seemed undaunted. We needed to go home to Ron’s and seek his advice, he announced. And once he heard Jacob gushing about the place, Ron found our answer. “There’s no problem. I can go to my bank tomorrow morning as soon as they open and lend it to you”. I was dumbfounded. “But how in the world will we pay the rent and utilities and still find the money to pay you back?”, I questioned. He was confident we’d do it in time, little by little, as we could. I still cannot believe what a fairy godfather we had found in this man.

We moved in the little that we had salvaged from Matty’s apartment that was usable, plus our clothes and personal treasures. At first there were no beds, but almost daily Jacob began collecting hand me down furniture from his circle of  weird  friends. By the end of that first month we already felt the pinch in our pockets when May rent came due and our first Con Edison bill arrived. I remember that same week the agency could only get me work two days, when necessity had called for me to work at least a nine-day week just to break even. There was no money left for groceries, so we ate cream of wheat cooked with water (not a drop of milk in the house) with the dregs from an old bottle of Aunt Jemima Pancake Syrup sparingly drizzled on top for dinner three nights in a row.

Friday was payday and after buying my subway tokens (35 cents each) I was down to less than a dollar. At lunchtime, starving from lack of real sustenance, I walked past a street vendor who had beautiful, huge apples, absolutely delectable-looking to my hungry eyes. I chose carefully to find the largest, prettiest one. It would hold me until I picked up my check on the way home. I found a bench to relax and savor my treat and biting into it with relish, it turned out to be dry and mealy and brown but I ate it anyway. That was the first time in nearly six months of living in New York, that I questioned what in the world was I doing in this place. Going back to Ohio was NOT an option on the table, however, no matter how bad things might get.

Living for a little over two years at 110 Sullivan, quite a lot of life happened to me. I will not begin to bore you with all the details, but there are some highlights that bear mention. First off, the list of negatives:

The air conditioner we thought was a plus, was actually a useless piece of crap that was in reality only a wimpy fan that blew hot air into the apartment. No matter how many times we complained, they could never make it work.

The elevator often stopped between floors. Not to worry though, because the door could be easily pried open with frantic fingers making it possible to crawl out or at worst jump down to the floor a few feet from above. Its frequent misfunctioning served to cure me of my lifelong fear of elevators at last.

Our downstairs neighbor was this strangely attractive, beefy, middle-aged Jewish girl from Queens who was our own private Rhoda Morgenstern. She was so naturally funny and had the distinction of being the first person to ever refer to me not by name, but rather always only as bubala. She phoned constantly at all hours to complain about our walking with shoes on the bare wooden floors above her head. “Bubala darling, is Jacob practicing in high heels? You’re giving me a migraine already!” Or when there was low water pressure she’d call to gripe about not being able to rinse her hair “Are you boys running the bath and kitchen sink at the same time? Leave a little water for Mumalah”. When she couldn’t direct her complaints at us personally, she called to kvetch about no heat, her mother in New Jersey, or just the weather.

That poor excuse for a kitchen may have been impossibly small for me, but the roaches loved it so much they invited all their friends to share the space. We bought a can of Raid for almost every quart of milk and still they thrived. They sprayed the building monthly, but I secretly believed the exterminator used sugar-water or something the creatures craved, rather than poison, to guarantee themselves job security.

Far longer, however would be my list of good things to recount:

Number one was the super’s wife, who Jacob and I referred to as Our Landlady because everyone understood that this was her building. She was a middle-aged Sicilian-American woman with a set of pipes like a fish monger. She was literally as wide as she was tall. Everyone in a three-block radius knew her on sight and by first name. The super’s apartment was on the ground floor in the front of the building. I only saw her leave to go up the street to Mass on Sunday, or on Bingo night at the same church. She held court from her window right next to the front door, so she could watch all of our comings and goings as well as oversee the sidewalk traffic from early morning until she went to sleep. The window was always open (except when it snowed), her chair wedged against it and her ham hock-like bare arm jutted out over the sill, as though she were driving our building up the street. She was a fantastic cook and often the smells from her kitchen wafted into the lobby, causing one to drool before reaching the elevator button. Once in a while she sent up a dish of macaroni with her killer sauce for us to enjoy. She was immortalized in a WNET documentary about the street festival where she annually sold her baked pasta in a booth in front of our building.

The Saint Anthony Festival was a yearly summer street fair and people came from all over the city for the week-long party. That first year it began like magic, seeing the church block and our block transform to accommodate food vendors, musicians, carnival games and the like. Nobody cooked the whole week and friends came and we’d eat our way up and down the two blocks every night, sampling the delicious home cooking: sausage and pepper sandwiches, meatball heroes, pastas, cannolis and my personal favorite food discovery-zeppole. To refer to this confection as a donut or fried dough would be a huge disservice. It is as heavenly as a New Orleans beignet, only slightly chewier. Some evenings a dozen of these delectables were my entire dinner. The second summer, somewhere mid-week, I began to grow weary of the crowds assaulting my block and all the noise and mess the church festival brought to my home and neighborhood. Even though the city swept and power-washed the sidewalks and street after each night, I still now looked upon it as a great invasion of privacy. And the charm was totally erased on one particular morning, when dressed in a beige linen suit on my way out the front door to work, I slipped and fell on a water-logged, swollen zeppole that lay in waiting for me like an unexploded land mine. The party was over for this boy.

Jacob found a boyfriend our first year in the apartment and the guy ended up moving to the west coast that fall. Devastated, he was going out to visit him. Around that same time, a good friend from University who I’d shared an apartment with my last year there was moving to New York and would be staying at our place. He and Jacob overlapped for a time, not too long if memory serves me. Ken was renting a Uhaul to drive his things to the City, so I took advantage of the trip and went to Ohio and brought my bed and some other pieces of furniture back in the truck. It was good to reconnect with a friend from college days and someone with whom I had a history. Besides, I had grown weary of babysitting Jacob all those months. Somehow his trip to LA got him to Hawaii and that is the last I ever heard of him. Our final conversation was long distance from Honolulu, when I refused to let him charge yet another long distance call on the phone, as he had already run up over a $100 tab. Ken is a warm and extremely witty man and as a roommate he brought a welcome balance to the apartment. Whenever I think about those days, homemade biscuits, incredible cornbread and his wonderful talent for making breakfast fare into a five-star dinner come to mind. He stayed on through the two year lease and we are still friends to this day. I recall with a smirk how the both of us suffered crushes on the two Italian brothers who had taken over their grandfather’s hardware store in our neighborhood. Unrequited love for each of us, I think we would have been content with either of them.

In an ironic twist, soon after moving into the building, I learned two friends from the theatre department, Skip and Nicky, one of the first gay couples I’d met at University were living one block up from me on the opposite side of the street. And my dear friend and one of the most unique personalities from our theatre department, Jennifer, was on the same block in a street level studio only a few steps away from my doorway. I, who was dead-set on cultivating a circle of “New York friends” had managed to physically move right back into the close-knit group of cronies I had spent the previous four years with at school. Through the next decade plus, we matured as adults and New Yorkers together. Now none of us lives on Sullivan anymore, but some are still in the city. Whenever we get together, I remark that we are all like cousins. We have shared so much of life and fate has literally bound us together, like blood does, despite circumstances and ourselves.

I cannot close the book on 110 Sullivan without a final remembrance of the place. The doors from the lobby to the street were all glass and each morning I recall pushing the heavy panel on my right, out onto the sidewalk to begin my day. As I did so, I would glance through the pane and down the street, south, to the brand new twin towers of The World Trade Center, dedicated just before I had moved in. You couldn’t help but notice them, because they filled the entire space at the end of my street-so giant and lofty they looked to be only a block or two away. The towers served to remind me every morning, in case I was still a little groggy from not enough sleep, that I was living in New York City. Even on rainy or over-cast mornings, still they seemed to shine because of all the glass and their sheer stature on the planet. Somehow they made me proud. They made me feel a part of the city now too.

1972 and a birthday move to N.Y.C.

In order to make my move from Ohio to New York City even more momentous, I chose to do it on my twenty-third birthday. The entire episode was timed and choreographed to be as theatrical as I could possibly make it and of course the production was starring me. Leaving West Buttfok was something I had been dreaming of since high school, and living in NYC was a mission that began the very first time I stepped foot in Manhattan. It seemed only fitting that it deserved to be as big a production as I could possibly make it.

It was December, 1972 and I had spent the first week saying goodbye to family and the friends I still had left in the area. Few tears were shed on my part, and I have always been a crier, but I was just too damned excited to get weepy and so bloody happy to finally be escaping the Buckeye State. This would not be just a move, you see, but an entire rebirth, complete with name change. I was dropping my first name (which I neither liked nor ever identified with) and using my middle name, which had been my paternal grandfather’s. I was looking for a total change in life and pursued every avenue I could to make it as different as possible. At twenty-two, although University had coerced me to grow up, I still felt that my life had not yet really begun. It was as though my plane had been circling the airport for years, but hadn’t been given clearance to land. I would finally be bringing in my plane all on my own on the day I turned twenty-three.

But I would not be flying from Cleveland to New York.1) It was way too expensive. I had worked my summer job through November and had managed to scrape together $750, the most money I had ever before amassed and needed it all to live on until I became a working actor in the city. 2) It was only about a fifty-five minute plane ride, plus no airline had a flight to NYC much past early evening, therefore, air travel would just not be impressive enough to suit my melodramatic scenario. No, I wanted to arrive in the city as close to midnight on my birthday as possible and the train schedule didn’t fit within my plans either. The Greyhound Bus certainly did. I could take a bus midday on the day before and arrive at the old Port Authority Bus Station just before midnight. I also wanted to get a true sense of the distance between West Buttfok and NYC, and certainly the eleven-hour-plus bus ride would help me on that account – and then some.

My parents seemed to know me, but they seldom understood me and this particular brand of birthday celebration struck them as very odd. “Why don’t you just wait until we can celebrate your birthday with the whole family, and then move?” my dad asked. That wouldn’t work with my plans, I patiently explained to both of them. “But why not go after Christmas, so you won’t have to go and come back in just a few weeks?” Mom questioned. “I can’t come home this year. It doesn’t make sense”. My final bombshell was launched. It didn’t make either of them happy, but they knew not to push the issue further. It was my ball game and I was setting all the rules.

My birthday fell on a Saturday this particular year. Thursday night my parents chose to celebrate my ‘Birthday / Bon Voyage’.  It was only the three of us – I can’t remember why my younger brother wasn’t there. No one was saying very much and it seemed like a sad sort of non celebration. I had to be cautious and not show too much enthusiasm for my pending trip, and my poor folks were nearly funereal. I said I didn’t want a cake, just a nice supper together so my mother made some of my favorite comfort food. It was nearly silent at the big, round kitchen table that had been the home of so many loud arguments and wonderful family fights. I had always connected mealtime with acrimony and sparring matches. Tonight, the peace and quiet was deafening. Oh yes, it certainly was time for me to leave, I thought with every swallow of food.

After dinner they gave me a present –  a small box to open up. I was hoping it was several hundred dollars in travelers checks to supplement my survival kitty. It was a carved elephant “with an upturned trunk” my mother eagerly pointed out, “so the good luck doesn’t spill out”. She said it was to bring good fortune into my new home wherever that might be. I was to make sure that the elephant’s ass was always pointed in the direction of the front door to guarantee it worked. It was such a cool, totally impractical and heartfelt gift it brought me to tears. As I thanked them, she broke down too, while Dad sat somberly in his recliner, smoking his cigar. Thus ended the celebration as I remember it.

My mother taught high school and left the house very early, so she said we’d say our goodbyes that night, since Dad was taking me to the bus station alone. I told her to wake me up anyway, but she said I’d need plenty of sleep for my bus trip. So before bed that night there were more tears. Early the next morning I awoke when I heard her getting ready and thought about getting up to say goodbye again. At that moment I heard the door to my room open slowly, so I feigned sleep, as I opted to not begin this day of days with another flood of tears. She came to the side of my bed and I felt her hand ever so gently brush the hairs back from my forehead. I remained motionless in my imaginary doze as she patted my head and whispered “you were my favorite”. It sent chills through my body, because I felt like a corpse conscious of its mourners. I wanted to jump up and yell “I’m not dead, for christ sake,  just moving!”, but I remained in my faux comatose state. As she tip-toed out of the room, I saw her stuff a small envelope into the pocket of the jacket over my chair. Once I heard her car pull away, I dove for the envelope. It contained a wad of twenty dollar bills with a note that read simply DON’T TELL YOUR FATHER. It made me smile.

I got up shortly after and showered and checked my suitcase for the umpteenth time. It was jammed with clothes, shoes and toiletries and necessaries.I had shipped a large trunk to Matty’s apartment at the beginning of the week which contained bulkier items and loads of accumulated keepsakes and memorabilia. I thought they might make me comfortable in the big, bad city if I should get homesick. I couldn’t imagine that happening. My new life would be an exciting adventure. Dad got up soon after. He was paranoid about being late for anything, so I knew we would be getting an early start, and that was fine by me. I was ready to get this show on the road. We got to downtown Cleveland about an hour before departure. He wanted to wait with me until the bus left, but I talked him into leaving beforehand, telling him there might be traffic. Truth was, neither of us were comfortable enough yet to spend an hour alone with each other. I so wanted to give him a hug goodbye, or hear him tell me he would miss me but neither of those things happened. He told me to take care of myself and stay out of trouble and went to shake my hand. As he stepped closer, he shoved a wad of twenties into my pocket and said “Don’t tell your mother”. His gesture was as good as admitting that he loved me. I watched him walk out of the bus terminal, and once he was out the door, I quickly wiped my eyes.

I remember little about the bus ride other than how long eleven-plus hours on a coach can be, especially when you just want to be at your destination from the moment you step on the bus. Looking out the window it also astounded me how nondescript was the only part of our country that I knew at this time  -  Ohio/Michigan/Pennsylvania. They were all the same bland blur of nothingness and nowhereness to me. But that would all be over once I got off the bus tonight into the lights of Manhattan. I do remember that never once in those eleven hours, or in the days and weeks before as I planned this sojourn into my future, did I have any fears or anxieties or doubts about this move. It simply was what I had to do to live the rest of my life.

After what seemed at least half a lifetime, we finally made it to New Jersey and the entrance to the tunnel into Manhattan. This was an amazing part of the trip, those  bright lights shining harshly on the white tiled interior lining the tunnel. I watched in anticipation as the bus maneuvered its way to the opposite end which opened into Manhattan. We were just minutes away from the big finish to my opus. It felt as though my heart was lodged somewhere between my stomach and the back of my throat. We emerged into mid-town traffic – imagine traffic at nearly midnight. There were hardly any cars on the streets of West Buttfok at this hour. I had made it safely, and clumsily I jammed my way through the busy Port Authority terminal dragging my suitcase to the street to hail a cab. I breathed the cold December air, and wished I had worn a hat so I could have pulled a Mary Tyler Moore. I climbed into my cab, as I was on my way to Marie’s Crisis Cafe to meet my roommate Mattie and have my first  drink as a New Yorker.

Marie’s is a tiny gay bar in the cellar of 59 Grove Street off Sheridan Square in the West Village. Matty knew of my plan to arrive a little after midnight on my birthday. I was shaking with excitement as I pulled my suitcase to the curb and paid the cabbie. I could hear the piano music wafting up onto the pavement from below and the chorus of male voices crooning a familiar Sondheim tune. It acted like a beacon of hope for the career I dreamed of pursuing and whatever life would grow from it. I opened the door, left my suitcase on the landing, and looked over the room for Matty’s familiar face. I spotted him with a tray of drinks in his hand and I waved in his direction. He smiled, and went over to Terry at the piano, who looked up and in mid stream began to pound out a chorus of Happy Birthday. It was a surprise from Matty that I hadn’t included in my grand plan, and it warmed me right through. And then from somewhere in the darkness, a face I had never seen before stepped forward with a small birthday cake covered in more candles than frosting with my new name emblazoned on top. I was smiling so hard my face ached with happiness. At a table in the corner sat Richard, the not so strange stranger who already figured somewhere in my New York life and my heart leapt. We literally closed the place and Matty and I staggered home to the apartment at 24 King Street, taking turns dragging my suitcase for blocks. It was one of the most memorable of birthdays, yet I had celebrated  it with a roomful of people I didn’t know.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 32 other followers

%d bloggers like this: